Indonesia, one week on the island
Sumba
What I got up to on my relaxing week in Sumba, coconut coastlines, green hills and empty beaches.
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What I got up to on my relaxing week in Sumba, coconut coastlines, green hills and empty beaches.
Sumba doesn't announce itself. No big resorts crowding the shoreline, just red-earth roads, thatched villages, and a coastline that stays quiet even in peak season. This is how I spent a week moving across it, from the east coast to the far west.
First couple of days were all about slowing down at Tanoma. Sunrise beach walks right out the front of the accommodation, pool dips, finding cute little shells along the sand, coconuts basically on tap. Made friends with the beautiful staff there too, the easiest possible start to the week.
Hired a scooter for a couple of days and rode around in the afternoons through the dry season fields around the east. Golden grass, empty roads, and not another tourist in sight.
Ended the east coast leg here, timber benches under a palm-thatch shelter, coconuts on the table, watching the tide go out as the light dropped.
Worth building into your own route: the local markets in the towns through the east often sell stationery and basic school supplies. Sumba is one of Indonesia's poorest regions, and picking up a few extra notebooks and pens to drop off at a local school along the way is a small, easy way to give something back.
The Route
East to west, roughly four hours by car, with a lot of reasons to stop along the way.
Sumba's hills look nothing like the coastline. Soft green hills that turn gold later in the year, with a staircase leading up to the viewpoint over all of it. Climbed up for the view and had it completely peaceful, not another person in sight.
Sumba's high-peaked thatched roofs are unlike anything else in Indonesia, stone tombs sitting right next to the traditional homes, some of it all standing for generations. Wandered through slowly, past friendly children smiling and waving as we went.
Stopped at a roadside warung for nasi goreng, sat on the floor with the locals, and spent an hour talking with my driver about his life. One of those unplanned stops that became a highlight of the whole trip.
Had a magical stay at Lelewatu Resort. Pool overlooking the ocean, morning coffee with pink skies, endless massages and lounging. Recommend it if you're after something a bit more boujee to balance out the trip.
Set an alarm for before dawn to ride bareback along the beach as the sky turned pink. One of those mornings that made the early start feel completely worth it.
Bumped along backroads in a safari jeep to reach Watu Bella Beach, the beach that ended up being my favourite of the whole trip, a hidden stretch of sand behind a limestone cliff, completely empty when we arrived.
